Details of the London to Kathmandu tour, September-October 1979

by Nick Whetstone.

Part two - Istanbul to Isfahan

September 13
Had to wait for diesel supplies to arrive and did not get on road until midday. Drove through Istanbul and over the Bosphorus via the new suspension bridge. Continued east heading for Ankarra. Found very pleasant campsite about 110 km before Ankarra.

September 14
Early start after cold night. Bypassed Ankarra and stopped at Golbasi for breakfast. On to Karman for lunch stop. Afternoon drive stopped when two small shepherd boys threw stones at bus. We took one of their sheep 'hostage' and when some Turkish men came along, the boys were severely punished. Ran out of diesel near Nevsehi but topped up from Jerry cans. Camped near Urgup.

September 15
Stopover day. Tim takes the bus on a tour of the region to Uchiscar, Avanos, Zelve and Goreme. Returned to camp for a swim in the pool. Impromptu disco in the bus after evening meal.

September 16
Still waiting for diesel supplies so no early start. Laundry, writing letters etc.

September 17
Woke early (6.45) to rescue washing from rain. Went in bus to Nevisher to buy diesel. Returned to camp to pack up. Drove to Kaysari for lunch then on to near Sivas to free-camp at a very remote sight. Just enough wood found to light a campfire.

September 18
Cold night and glad to be up and on the road again early. Reached Erzican by lunch time. Drove on to camp at site near Erzirum.

September 19
Breakfast stop at Tozluca then on to Iranian border at Bazargan. Not long after border crossing we were 'ordered' onto a campsite next to a police station 'for our safety'.

September 20
Bus got bogged down and needed a tow from an Encounter Overland truck. Lunch stop in Marand. Some passengers got lost and thought the bus had left without them so a friendly policeman drove them at high speed with lights and siren to 'catch us up'. Having waited for them we drove off only to find them waiting just outside town. Arrived in Zanjan late evening and with a dust storm brewing Tim found us an hotel.

September 21
Drove on eastwards to Abhur (breakfast) and then to Tehran for lunch stop. From there we headed south passing Qom before free-camping in the desert, about 270 km north of Isfahan.

September 22
Drove the rest of the way to Isfahan to set up camp in the large government campsite. Anne received a letter and informed us that she must return to England immediately. Crowded site with us, the Encounter Overland truck and three large buses en route from Sweden. Brilliant showers!

September 23
Stopover day and Tim took us into town on the bus. Sightseeing and shopping. Isfahan is absolutely beautiful and very unspoiled (non-touristy). Would have liked longer there. Evening meal in site restaurant.